For an ill-fated book, I once had to come up with 12 ways to cook halibut and was feeling a little desperate after grilled, baked, broiled, poached, beer-battered, nut-crusted and even planked.

Peak-season corn husks are soft and pliable and have a grassy taste and smell. Unfolding them at the table is like unwrapping a very fragrant gift. The ineffable corn flavor infuses the very mild fish ...